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When curating a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might foresee renowned award-winning names. But, situated prominently among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu found in a outlying area of north London.

A Surprise Recognition

This small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. This recognition has made the proprietors totally astonished.

“I’m utterly shocked,” states the proprietor, alluding to his family’s dedication that led to their small shop achieving such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its former character. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the fare, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for below £25, equivalent meals at top-tier establishments can run into many times that amount.

The Creed of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not train at fancy restaurants. “I feel really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate beyond its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this gastronomic achievement.